Saudades

(Days 19 & 20 – Gijón (Xixón) – 18 & 19 July 2025)

Saudades. Yearning for, missing something I cannot quite put my finger on. Listening to classic Argentinian rock in an Argentinian vegan bar in Gijón, looking at the alfajores in the display, the little blue and white, sun-decorated flag in the sugar jar, waiting for my empanada (because they’re still making the tortillas (served either in pincho portion size or ración portion size). The overhead lights by the bar and the corners include the plants you would expect to find at any woowoo plant-based eatery. Apropos to the motif, the stool cushions and door to the bathroom covered in tropical prints, complete with toucans, a la Iguazu Falls. And then… the bar and window paneling is mid-70’s deep stained wood, the stained, crimson red wall tilings hint at the venue’s earlier uses, the dark red marble skirting is surely no longer even sold, and the brown and beige rounded tiling on the floors was certainly all the rage 50 years ago. The extreme cultural mashup is comforting, that I can navigate it and identify with it and is equally comforting, but the loneliness weighs on my heart. I want to share the odd joy this whole experience is offering me. I want to smile about it, not talk about it, not say a word, just squeeze someone’s hand and chuckle.